THE STORY OF BUTTER CHICKEN
- Joel Gaba
- Dec 10, 2024
- 3 min read
Butter chicken, or murgh makhani, is one of the most beloved dishes in the world, transcending borders and food cultures. Its origins, however, lie deep in the heart of Delhi, where it was created by a serendipitous combination of ingredients and culinary traditions. It begins with the traumatic historical event of the Partition of 1947.
In the early 1950s at the iconic Moti Mahal restaurant in Old Delhi. The restaurant’s founders, Kundan Lal Gujral and his partners, were pioneers in the art of tandoori cooking. They were famous for their delicious kebabs and tandoori dishes. Kundan Lal Gujral, the founder of Moti Mahal, originally hailed from what is now Pakistan. After the Partition, he relocated to Delhi, carrying with him the culinary traditions and flavors from his homeland. The move to Delhi marked a new chapter for both Gujral and his restaurant, which would go on to shape the future of Indian cuisine. Moti Mahal became a symbol of resilience and adaptation, as it combined the rich culinary heritage of the Punjab region with the dynamic flavors of post-Independence India. Butter chicken, born from this fusion of necessity and creativity, became an enduring legacy of the period and a reminder of the deep cultural connections between India and Pakistan.
Tiramisini recently released a documentary exploring the impact of India's Partition on Delhi's food culture- including the historical tale of the butter chicken!
The Birth of Butter Chicken
One day, they had leftover tandoori chicken that they didn’t want to waste. Or in another version, there was a group of hungry refugees but Kundal Lal just had tandoori chicken and whipped up a gravy to create a greater quantity to satiate them. In an effort to bring new life to the dry, spiced chicken, they decided to simmer it in a rich, buttery tomato gravy. The result? A dish so luxurious and flavorful that it quickly became a favorite among patrons.
The buttery, creamy sauce, infused with aromatic spices like garam masala, ginger, and garlic, perfectly complemented the smoky, charred tandoori chicken. It was this combination that gave birth to butter chicken, a dish that would eventually travel far beyond Delhi’s borders.
Thereafter, many Moti Mahal's spawned all around the globe, with a nasty feud between both the Kundan Lals' grandsons who fight for the rights to the original recipe. However, the original Moti Mahal stands at Daryaganj, where you can find the OG Butter Chicken.
The Global Journey of Butter Chicken
What began as an innovation to salvage leftovers in a modest kitchen quickly gained popularity, with the dish becoming a staple at Indian restaurants worldwide. Over the years, butter chicken's smooth, rich sauce and tender chicken have won over the palates of people from different cultures.
What remains consistent is the dish’s creamy texture, balanced flavours, and universal appeal. The dish has evolved and adapted across cultures, with regional variations emerging in different parts of the world. In India, butter chicken is often enjoyed with naan or rice, while in Western countries, it is sometimes served with roasted vegetables or potatoes to balance the richness.
Butter Chicken Today: A Global Icon
Today, butter chicken is not just a dish; it’s a global icon. It’s a representation of how a humble combination of ingredients can become something extraordinary. The dish’s widespread popularity speaks to the universal love for rich, comforting food that brings people together. From high-end restaurants to street food stalls, butter chicken continues to be a beloved dish, often considered a gateway to Indian cuisine for newcomers.
As the dish’s reach expands, it has also inspired new takes on the recipe, with chefs experimenting by adding different spices, vegetables, or meats, or even vegan alternatives to make it more accessible to diverse diets. Despite these variations, the essence of butter chicken remains the same: a deliciously creamy, flavorful dish that reminds us of the power of food to connect us to culture, history, and each other.
The story of butter chicken is one of culinary innovation, cultural fusion, and global appreciation. It began as a creative solution to a simple problem in a Delhi kitchen, and over time, it became a dish that unites food lovers across the world. Whether enjoyed in the heart of Delhi or in a cozy restaurant abroad, butter chicken is more than just a dish – it’s a delicious story of culinary history that continues to evolve and captivate our taste buds.
